Triglav National Park: The Ultimate 4 Day Hiking Guide

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Triglav National Park: The Ultimate 4 Day Hiking Guide

Triglav National Park is Slovenia’s only National Park and is named after the country’s highest mountain, Mount Triglav (2864 m). 

The park became a protected area in 1924 and it’s not surprising with its roaring waterfalls, chiselled gorges, turquoise lakes, alpine meadows and rugged mountains.

Triglav National Park is free and no permits are needed to enter, however there are several natural wonders which require a small fee to visit (eg. Vintgar Gorge and Mostnica Gorge).

Fun Fact: Mount Triglav is so important to Slovenian’s that it’s even on their national flag!

After completing Alta Via 1 in 2020 we had caught the hut to hut hiking bug! So in summer 2022 we embarked on another multi day hike, in Slovenia. This time we stepped up the challenge, to include a lengthier section of Via Ferrata and summiting Mount Triglav.

If you’re a keen hiker looking for your next challenge, this is a great way to explore one of Europe’s lesser known mountain ranges.

In this guide we’ve included everything you need to know about planning your Slovenian adventure, including; how to get there, where to stay and answering FAQ’s about the National Park.

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Where is Triglav National Park?

Triglav National Park is located in north west Slovenia and is not far from the Italian and Austrian borders.

It includes a large portion of the Julian Alps which continue into Italy to join the Dolomites.

How to get to Triglav National Park?

You don’t need a car to visit Triglav National Park but planning around bus schedules is key to getting anywhere.

Even in peak season, although cheap and sometimes free, public transport is infrequent and often very busy, so plan ahead!

We recommend staying near the start of the hike the night before to make travel on your first day easier. Both Hotel Gasperin and Bohinj Eco Hotel are lovely and near bus stops that take you to the start of the trail.

If we haven’t covered a travel option that suits you below, you can find more details on how to get to Bohinj and Triglav National Park here.

By Car

If this is an option for you, great! Having the flexibility of transport when you need it is ideal in Triglav National Park.

There are plenty of car parks within the National Park and although expensive, it can be worth it.

Find out more about car parks and the park & ride here.

By Plane

The nearest airport is in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.

If you’re flying from the UK, flights are infrequent and the majority depart from London, so plan your trip accordingly before booking anything.

By Bus

From Ljubljana bus station you can get to Bohinj Lake and Stara Fužina in 2 hours. You can plan your route ahead and buy tickets here.

Arriva is the main bus company around Triglav National Park, but be sure to check bus timetables the day before you plan to travel as some buses can be once every 2 hours or more! Typically buses between Ljubljana and Lake Bled are regular and reliable however from Lake Bled to Bohinj buses are much less frequent.

Top Tip: Google Maps doesn’t have accurate bus schedules so make sure you check the bus company’s website.

Can you stay in Triglav National Park?

With a network of 52 Mountain Huts in the Julian Alps, there is a multitude of options to create a route that suits your individual ability, fitness level and desired level of comfort.

Camping outside designated areas is not permitted and wild camping in Triglav National Park is illegal.

We chose to do the route in 4 days (3 sleeps), staying at the following huts:

The above prices are per person per night from our trip in July/August 2022. Cheaper options are available if you are willing to stay in a larger dorm.

Top Tip: The huts generally offer discount to members of Mountaineering Associations such as the BMC or The Alpine Club, so remember to take your membership cards for these.

What are the Mountain Huts like in Triglav National Park?

The Mountain Huts in Triglav National Park are like hostels but with a cosy and rustic mountain atmosphere. Most charge on a half-board basis with bed, breakfast and a 1 or 2 course evening meal. 

Sleeping arrangements usually comprise dormitories although many do offer private rooms for an extra few euros per night. Rooms are mostly cosy and warm and you are provided with a pillow and a blanket, though it’s advisable you bring your own sleeping bag liner.

Although many of the huts may feel like hotels after a hard day on the trail, remember they are still remote and therefore lacking in some facilities, such as running water. Be prepared to buy bottled water, at a premium price, and unfortunately showers are not always available. In the huts where showers are available, you can pay extra for tokens which allow you for a set time (eg 4 minutes) or set volume of hot water.

Don’t let the term ‘mountain hut’ put you off, they are really unique and enjoyable places to stay and mean you start and end your days with spectacular views and fresh mountain air.

Fun Fact: There is a rule in Triglav National Park that you must take all rubbish back down to the valley with you.

How long do you need in Triglav National Park?

3 to 5 days in Triglav National Park is enough to see the highlights, absorb the scenery and is the perfect introduction to hut-to-hut hiking.

Top Tip: Plan your itinerary based upon your own abilities, use our guide as simply that, a guide. Don’t copy anything you see online or in a guide book exactly. You don’t want to find yourself suffering with exhaustion or alternatively finding yourself bored after arriving at your next hut after 2 hours in the morning.

The Ultimate 4 Day Hiking Guide in Triglav National Park

Triglav National Park is filled with incredible hiking trails and cosy alpine huts.

There are so many options it can be overwhelming. Many people opt for day hikes in the park, but in order to get deeper into the wilderness you need to embark on a multiday, hut to hut adventure!

Below, we’ve detailed a 4 day itinerary that we trekked in the summer of 2022.

Stage 1: Stara Fužina to Vodnikov dom na Velem polju

Route Summary

  • Distance: 12 KM60
  • Time: 5-7 hours75
  • Ascent: 1325m90
  • Descent: 45m10

From the supermarket in Stara Fužina, head north until you reach a bend in the road and here, turn left to head uphill. Alternatively you can go straight ahead but the road was closed when we were there.

Continue on the road until you reach the first car park, Parkirišče Stara Fužina, where there is a toilet!

From the car park, branch right and follow a dirt track alongside a fence. Enjoy the peaceful stroll through the forest, where highlights include; knarly tree roots,  a ‘Devil’s Bridge’ and ravines filled with turquoise water. There are even small labels beside the different plants along the footpath to educate visitors to the National Park. 

Additional Sight: You can pay €3 at a wooden hut on the footpath to visit Mostnica Gorge and see the waterfall. 

Following the river and the forest path, you eventually emerge to Planinska koca na Vojah, the first hut of the trail! This is great opportunity to have lunch and enjoy some refreshing fresh limonda!

Top Tip: If you order fresh limonada in Slovenia you will receive a very sharp and bitter yet refreshing drink. It’s made from a squeeze of fresh lemon juice mixed with water only.

From the hut continue on the main track until you reach a sign post. Turn left continuing on a wide gravel track until it becomes more of a footpath disappearing into the forest.

As you enter the forest the route begins with a steep, loose rocky section. Walking poles are a must especially with a heavy backpack!

Following the waymarked trail you eventually emerge from the forest and turn a corner onto a rockier section. Crossing scree slopes, finally catching sight of Vodnikov Dom in the distance.

Mountain Hut Review

Vodnikov Dom is a cosy alpine hut, perched on a picturesque mountain side, with stunning views of the valley below. (See if you can spot the hut in the picture above).

From the dining room you can hear the cow bells echoing from the valley floor and on a clear morning you can see the rugged mountain peaks surrounding you.

We were fortunate enough to stay in a private 2 bed room here, the rooms are small but they’re all you need for one night.

It’s warm and clean and there are bathrooms on the ground and first floors. There’s also a shower on the ground floor, which costs €5 for 4 minutes. Tokens can be bought at reception.

We stayed on a half board basis; bed, dinner (main course and dessert) and breakfast (a small buffet selection) for €52 per person.

Stage 2: Vodnikov Dom to Dom Planika pod Triglavom

Route Summary

  • Distance: 6KM40
  • Time: 4-6 hours60
  • Ascent: 922m60
  • Descent: 350m30

Leaving Vodnikov Dom, follow the path to the back of the hut where a marked stone directs you towards Triglav and Dom Planika. The loose stone path weaves it’s way around the edge of the basin, culminating in a steep climb up to Dom Planika.

If you’re feeling adventurous from here you can push on to summit Mount Triglav, (more detailed guide can be found here), the highest mountain in Slovenia. Our route guide and details above include this in the distance. If Via Ferrata isn’t for you, then without Mount Triglav this section should only take 2 hours. It would therefore be worth venturing on to another hut to extend the day.

**VIA FERRATA SAFETY**

Before tackling Mount Triglav or any Via Ferrata, it is highly recommend that you use the following kit:

Rock Climbing Helmet
Harness
Via Ferrata Lanyard (with two karabiners)

Fun Fact: Locals say that you can only be considered a true Slovenian once you have climbed Mount Triglav.

Mount Triglav Summit Climb

Having refuelled at Dom Planika, we got our helmets, harness and lanyards on and set off to summit Mount Triglav!

From Dom Planika hut, follow the sign post up the loose rocky trail. Pass through a short scrambly section early on before you eventually reach the first Via Ferrata.

Top Tip: Weekends are much busier, to avoid the queues on the Via Ferrata, we recommend summiting on a week day.

Clipping on to the Via Ferrata cable, you get into a rhythm as you glide along, scrambling up the ridge. There is a lengthy exposed section, largely covered by Via Ferrata cables with some steep drops.

With many people ascending and descending via the same route, you are likely to pass people. Be aware of this, look ahead and pass only where safe.

Following the only route up, you first summit Mali Triglav before eventually reaching the rocket like summit shelter on Triglav itself.

Descend via the same route, ensuring at a fork you descend right towards Dom Planika Hut. Left takes you to another hut, Triglavski don na Kredarica. Take extra care and concentrate on your way down, as like any mountain, most accidents happen on the descent.

Fun Fact: The name Triglav means ‘three headed’, reference to the three peaks of the mountain that can be seen from the south-east. 

Mountain Hut Review

With panoramic views of both the imposing Triglav above and the valley below, Dom Planika is a hut like no other. It’s scenic surroundings make up for the limited private rooms and lack of running water. 

The hut also has a luggage room for anyone staying the night so there’s no need to carry the extra weight up Triglav! We ended up leaving one bag and decanting any extra weight from the other so we only carried the essentials.

For €53 we received dinner, a room in a 5 bed dorm and breakfast. The food was delicious, we would recommend paying extra for the dessert too! Breakfast choices here were much more filling, a great way to start off a hiking day!

Stage 3: Dom Planika pod Triglavom to Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih

Route Summary

  • Distance: 10 KM70
  • Time: 4-6 hours70
  • Ascent: 236m70
  • Descent: 900m30

Looking over the valley below from Dom Planika, follow the thin gravel path descending to the right (approximately south west), snaking down the steep stoney slope. Unmarked on the map, there are several sections of Via Ferrata with steep drops. We felt confident to navigate these without our Via Ferrata lanyards as they were fairly short sections. However if you feel safer, gear up and clip in.

The trail drops down into a basin where you come across an array of names written in stones. Created by fellow hikers and designed to be read from above, you get a great view of these as you ascend the next hill.

Pass through another short cable aided section before you reach a crossroads, straight ahead is Koča na Doliču where it’s possible to buy refreshments and use the bathroom. However, the route to Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih is left, skirting round the valley before a steep climb up a very loose scree slope.

Follow the rocks marked with red lines as you cross a disorientating moon-like landscape. Mind your step, the path is very rocky with some short scrambles down.

At a junction branch right, following the sign for Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih and heading down into the valley.

Walking poles will be useful as you start the steep, zig zag descent down a loose path towards the valley below. Passing a small lake as you weave through the thickening vegetation before opening out to a much larger, turquoise lake. 

For the next half an hour or so you snake through a dense forest before stumbling across the picturesque hut, Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih. 

Mountain Hut Review

Triglavskih Jezerih couldn’t be more idyllic.  Nestled deep in the forest between two lakes, the traditional alpine hut is peaceful and charming.

Without wifi and showers, it isn’t the comfiest of huts, but there is running water and a fresh water spring outside.

There’s a large selection of indoor and outdoor seating with great views of the lake around it, and they have draught beer!

We paid €33 for a private room, with no meals included. This appears to be the best way as those that had breakfast included didn’t speak highly of the options included. If you pay room only you have a much wider choice, including cooked breakfasts!

Top Tip: Pay with card at the huts that allow you to do so! Only a handful accept card but it helps to save your cash for the huts that don’t. 

Stage 4: Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih to Planinski dom Savica

Route Summary

  • Distance: 13.5 KM80
  • Time: 4 -6 hours60
  • Ascent: 106m30
  • Descent: 1112m80

From the hut follow the path branching right around the lake, climbing up into the dense forest. The path weaves through forest and dense overgrowth filled with wild flowers and surrounded by stunning scenery.

Eventually you reach a fork, keep left heading towards Dom na Komni. It’s not long until you reach another junction, with the option to take a 5 minute detour to refuel at Dom na Komni.

Top Tip: Hiking poles are a blessing on the descent. Not only do they give your knees that extra support but they help you get into a rhythm and descend faster.

Follow the sign towards Planinski dom Savica, beginning with a gradual descent through shaded woodland. Soon the path steepens with incessant switchbacks and uncomfortable rocky terrain.

Continuing on through the forest, at last you are met with a gravel carpark and the smell of burger and fries!

Top Tip: Check the bus timetable if you have signal the night before. There are only a few buses a day to Bohinj and you don’t want to miss it!

What to pack for a multi day hike?

DOWNLOAD OUR MULTIDAY HIKING KIT LIST HERE!

There’s no ‘Donkey Option’ with this route, whatever you pack you have to carry on your back ALL DAY. We took 40L-50L bags, we had to pack a little extra because we ended the trip in Lake Bled and Ljubljana. If we hadn’t had a city break on the end we could definitely have packed lighter.

Though one key piece of advice would be to PACK A MAP and know how to use it! Although most of the trails are waymarked with red circles on the rocks, there is little phone signal to rely on a mobile app.You can download our routes on komoot, just be sure to download them so you can use the app offline. 

Always pack the essentials; waterproofs, spare warm layer, hat and gloves, sunglasses and sun hat, personal first aid kit, head torch.

Top Tip: Mark the maps with your chosen route beforehand then fold it the night before into a waterproof case and keep them handy. 

FAQ's

Is Slovenia expensive?

Slovenia is not expensive, in comparison to other European countries it’s quite reasonable.

It’s possible to spend a lot of money if you prefer high end hotels and restaurants but if you’re a hut to hut hiker you’re more likely to spend a lot less.

Even in the touristy places, it’s possible to find budget friendly accommodation and food.

In Triglav National Park, most of the activities and highlights are free anyway!

Can you climb Mount Triglav without a guide?

You can climb Triglav without a guide!

We did, however, Nick is a qualified Mountain Leader in the UK. For that reason, we felt comfortable doing this on our own without a local guide.

There are plenty of options to do this with a guide and we did see several guided groups on the mountain.

Can you drive through Triglav National Park?

You can drive through Triglav National Park, in fact many people plan road trips through the mountains.

As previously mentioned, there are plenty of car parks within the National Park, although expensive it can be worth it.

Find out more about car parks and the park & ride here.

Are there bears in Triglav National Park?

Bears are occasionally spotted in Triglav National Park.

If they are around, they are most likely to be found on Pokljuka plateau, in the Lower Bohinj Mountains, the Trenta Valley and the area of Tolmin. 

How do you make reservations at the mountain huts?

All the mountain huts can be booked online through the Mountaineering Association of Slovenia.

This website is really useful and has all the hut’s details https://www.pzs.si/vsebina.php?pid=3.

Using the maps and our Cicerone guidebook we planned our days and where we wanted to stay before we went. There are always some hikers on the trail who don’t book huts prior to arriving and phone ahead each morning to see if there was a bed available.

This is not advisable, especially in peak season. On arrival at some huts, they were fully booked and people had to walk to the next one. Besides, if you have a tight schedule and return flights booked this is unlikely to work for you.

When can you visit the Julian Alps?

You can visit Triglav National Park all year round however, the best time to visit is between April and October.

For hikers this is narrowed down to June to September, as some of the higher trails may still be covered in snow and ice.

Top Tip: The huts generally offer discount to members of Mountaineering Associations such as the BMC or The Alpine Club, so remember to take your membership cards for these.

Thanks for reading!

Don’t forget, if you have any questions feel free to get in touch via our page or over one of our social media accounts.

We’d love to hear your experiences in Triglav National Park! If you’re in the planning stages of going, let us know!

Eve and Nick

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