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All You Need To Know About Visiting Chernobyl
Tourism to the Chernobyl exclusion zone has been on the rise ever since the first images of skeletal buildings and eerie, deserted classrooms appeared on the internet. In recent years Dark Tourism sites, like Chernobyl, have become ever more popular, often coming with questions regarding safety and the ethics of visiting such locations. With this in mind, we’ve created a detailed guide, answering some of the most popular questions, explaining our experience and reviewing a top tour company.
What happened in Chernobyl?
On April 26th 1986, operators at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant were performing a routine safety test in Reactor 4. When the power reached dangerously low levels, operators violated safety precautions and removed the control rods. The test continued with emergency and safety systems turned off. At 1:23AM a power surge occurred, the emergency button was pressed but the control rods jammed. A series of explosions followed which ejected radioactive particles from the reactor core into the night sky. Lethal fumes rose up forming a radioactive cloud above the now destroyed nuclear reactor. The cloud deposited deadly radioactive particles over the surrounding area, reaching many parts of Europe.
A more detailed account of the devastating events can be found here along with an informative article from Live Science explaining the aftermath and health impacts on those nearby.
Visiting Chernobyl: FAQ's
Where is Chernobyl?
Chernobyl is in Ukraine, approximately 80 miles north of the capital Kyiv and 12 miles south of the Belarus border. Public access is limited in the 30km Exclusion Zone which extends from the Chernobyl Power Plant. The zone is controlled by the Ukrainian authorities and access gained through a series of strict checkpoints. The exclusion zone is still one of the most radioactive places on Earth.
The map below shows the location of the Chernobyl Power Plant and the extent of the exclusion zone.
Can You Visit Chernobyl?
Chernobyl opened to visitors in 2011 when it was officially declared ‘safe’. Since HBO’s Chernobyl miniseries, tourism to the disaster site has significantly increased with around 150,000 people visiting in 2019. Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky announced in mid 2019 that Chernobyl would become an official tourist attraction.
The Independent reported plans to improve phone signal and infrastructure in the zone as well the creation of a ‘Green Corridor’ to offer official and safe entry. In fact, the authorities have recently launched 21 new tourist routes as part of the new improvement plans. They also opened the infamous Reactor 4 Control Room which still reads at over 40,000 times normal radiation levels! As a result, visitors are limited to a 5 minute visit and must wear full protective clothing.
Is it Safe to Visit Chernobyl?
Provided you enter the Chernobyl Exclusion zone with a qualified tour guide, it is safe to visit. If you follow the rules, you will only be exposed to levels similar to that of a long haul flight. However, there are still some highly radioactive hotspots making it crucial to listen to your guide.
Whilst in the exclusion zone you will pass through several radiation check points which will put your mind at ease. Although we have read some theories that these checkpoints don’t actually work!
Live Science have a helpful and informative article explaining more about the levels you’re exposed to whilst in the zone.
Fact: The Ukrainian Army use the exclusion zone once a year to ‘practice’. As a result some buildings are full of bullet holes and have been heavily damaged.
Is it Worth Visiting Chernobyl?
Visiting Chernobyl is important. It’s a surreal experience which provides you with a unique perspective of the scale and impact of the disaster. By visiting you are playing your part in preserving the memories and passing on knowledge of the horrific event. It was an event which changed history and is a stark reminder of the dangers mankind poses to the natural environment and to itself.
Can You Visit Chernobyl Without A Guide?
Visiting Chernobyl without a guide is illegal and is also extremely dangerous, however some do ‘sneak’ into the zone. There are even companies who run covert multi-day tours which see tourists sleeping in derelict apartment blocks. For thrill seekers, this may sound exciting, however with so many unstable structures and unseen risks, it’s extremely dangerous. Those who enter the zone illegally are known as ‘stalkers’ (originating from the 1972 Russian science fiction novel ‘Roadside Picnic’).
The Calvert journal has an interesting article on Chernobyl’s secretive ‘stalker’ subculture, detailing risks including food and water consumption in the zone.
Fact: Window frames and valuables were stolen and buildings stripped of cabling by looters in the early 1990s. It’s estimated that 6 million tonnes of radioactive metal was looted and recycled into everyday items.
Which is the Best Chernobyl Tour?
After some careful consideration and visiting many tour websites claiming to be ‘the best’ we settled on ChernobylWel.come. If like us, it’s important that you use a responsible tour company and that groups are small, ChernobylWel.come is ideal. They support several worthwhile initiatives; each tripadvisor review plants a tree in the zone to aid with nature’s recovery. They also support the Chernobyl Babushkas, providing them with medicine and groceries, and regularly support the children’s cancer charity, Dobry Anjel. These important initiatives combined with great reviews and an alluring trip itinerary convinced us to book their 1 Day Tour from Kyiv.
Visiting Chernobyl: Tour Trailer
Our guide, Helga, was extremely knowledgeable about the zone and the accident. She had previously interviewed former Chernobyl residents and so was able to share the information she learned from them. As a photographer, she also identified some interesting locations to ensure we went away with memorable images from our tour.
Top Tip: Use code: GLOBETROTTERS at checkout to get some free gifts on any tour you book with them!
If we were to visit Chernobyl again...
We would book the 2 day tour option if we were visiting Chernobyl again, there is just so much to see! We did visit a lot of places but remain intrigued to see more of the less frequented locations. ChernobylWel.come also run private tours if you want to visit specific sights or would just rather not be in a group.
Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed our experience with ChernobylWel.come. It was factual, interesting and responsible. We learnt a lot about the disaster and now understand much more about exactly what happened on 26th April 1986.
Visiting Chernobyl: 1 Day Tour Itinerary
Different companies have different itineraries so if you’re interested in a specific sight, ensure the tour you choose stops there! Alternatively, you can book a private tour. Our 1 Day Tour from Kyiv with ChernobylWel.come in January 2020 followed the below itinerary.
Top Tip: The meeting point is outside Kyiv’s main train station which is massive and confusing to navigate (unless you speak Ukrainian). Therefore it’s worth doing a recce beforehand to ensure you get there on time. We went the night before and got lost A LOT! Puzata Hata (the meeting point near the station) is also a great self service restaurant where you can have dinner the night before or after the tour.
Finding the Meeting Point
The tour began with an early 7:30AM start in Kyiv, we met the bus outside the Puzata Hata Restaurant, near the train station. We’d heard that the meeting point could be difficult to find so had done a recce the night before. If you’re really late, they’ll leave without you, which nearly happened to some members of our tour. They hadn’t planned ahead, left it to maps at the last minute and got lost. It was very frustrating for everyone else who had been on time, so don’t be late.
Top Tip: There’s a McDonald’s around the corner from the meeting point. If you fancy a treat and you’re an early riser, what better way to start the day than by demolishing a greasy Bacon & Egg McMuffin! Puzata Hata also serve breakfast but we ate there the night before so treated ourselves to McDonald’s…
Journey from Kyiv to Chernobyl
The bus journey from Kyiv to the exclusion zone takes 2 hours. This sounds like a long journey but it passed quickly. ChernobylWel.come show a documentary on the bus and gave everyone a ‘newspaper’ to read with articles from the time of the accident.
Top Tip: There is a brief toilet and refreshment stop before entering the zone. If you forgot to bring snacks it’s worth picking up a few there. Once in the zone there’s nowhere to buy food and lunch is usually between 1PM-3PM.
First Checkpoint
When you arrive at the first checkpoint passports and documents are checked by the Ukrainian authorities. There’s a small gift shop but the tour also stops here on the return journey so no need to rush to buy souvenirs yet! Once through this checkpoint, you’ve officially entered the exclusion zone. Fascination and intrigue begins to build as you spot mysterious derelict buildings and discarded belongings appearing in the forest as you drive to the next checkpoint.
Top Tip: Use the bathroom whenever there’s one available! The only toilets are at lunch time or at the checkpoints when you enter/exit the zone. A large portion of the day before lunch is spent walking around Pripyat where there are no facilities. There’s definitely no nature wees allowed!
After passing through all the checkpoints it’s time for the first stop! Below we’ve listed the stops we made in chronological order.
1. Chernobyl's Red Forest
Chernobyl’s Red Forest is one of the most radioactive areas on earth. It’s located only 500 meters from the power plant and absorbed high levels of radiation from the initial explosion. Many trees died and turned orange (hence the name) and much of the forest is still out of bounds. For that reason, we drove straight through the forest, glued to our geiger counters as they beeped like crazy!
2. Pripyat Town Sign
Before entering the ghost town, every tour stops at the iconic Pripyat Town Sign. Unfortunately this historic monument is often vandalised and is regularly repainted. On the opposite side of the road to the sign is a radioactive hotspot, “don’t put anything on the ground there” shouts our tour guide *Eve drops mitten*… From this stop we were also able to view the Red Forest at a safe distance.
3. Pripyat Fairground
All Chernobyl visitors are keen to see the ferris wheel, made famous by games like Call of Duty and Stalker. The Pripyat Fairground was due to open just a week after the nuclear disaster. However, it’s speculated that it did momentarily open the day after the disaster to distract local residents from what was unfurling only a short distance away. After Pripyat was evacuated, the fairground was used to land helicopters during the immediate aftermath.
4. Pripyat
Pripyat was built to house workers at the nearby Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant in 1970. At the time of the accident, it had a population of around 50,000 people. Comprising 160 apartment blocks, 20 schools, a hospital, 27 cafes, shopping centres, 3 swimming pools, 2 stadiums and 35 playgrounds, it’s no wonder tours spend several hours in the town. Pripyat is the most visited town in the exclusion zone with hundreds of tourists passing through the abandoned remains each day.
By visiting Pripyat towards the start of our tour, we avoided other groups which would’ve disturbed the eerily quiet atmosphere. We stopped at sights like; Central Square, the Grocery Store, Rainbow Shopping Centre, Energetic Palace of Culture, Pripyat City Council, a local Art Gallery and Prometheus Cinema.
Fact: The average age of Pripyat’s residents before the accident was 26 meaning there were many young couples starting families.
5. Pripyat Hospital 126
The Pripyat Hospital basement is one of the scariest and most dangerous places in the zone. On the night of the accident, first responders were rushed here for treatment. Unbeknown to them and the medical staff, they were highly contaminated. As soon as Doctors discovered this, the firefighter’s clothing was taken to the basement, where it has remained ever since. Sadly illegal stalkers in the zone have brought remnants of the clothing up from the basement. These tiny scraps of cloth litter the hallways and as a result it’s no longer safe to enter the building. Our guide identified a tiny piece of cloth on a window sill, it looked like a leaf and could’ve easily been missed. Edging our geiger counter slowly and carefully towards the fabric, frantic beeping began which resulted in the highest reading we’d see all day!
6. Pripyat Riverport and Cafe
Families gathered along the riverbank to enjoy picnics and pleasure cruises in the summer and ice skating in the winter. Not far from the jetty is the wreck of a boat, half sunken into the radioactive lake. The cafe was known as ‘The Dish’ by local residents and was a popular teenage hangout. It once had huge colourful stained glass windows contrasting the uniform soviet architecture. Around the back of the cafe are several old soviet soda machines. These often had one glass attached by a chain, which would be rinsed and filled, much better than plastic cups!
7. Chernobyl Power Plant and Memorial
Everyone visiting Chernobyl will stop by the famous sarcophagus shielding the remains of reactor 4 from the outside world. Unsurprisingly, the radiation levels within the dome are the highest with the zone. A BBC article documents the new dome as bigger than Wembley stadium and taller than the statue of liberty, it took two decades to build. The final stop before lunch is the Chernobyl Power Plant Memorial which honours those who died in the initial aftermath of the accident, many of whom were first responders.
Top Tip: If actually going inside the power plant interests you, Chernobylwel.come do a 2 day Chernobyl Power Plant and Pripyat tour, as well as a Chernobyl Reactor 4 Control Room Tour.
8. Chernobyl Plant Canteen
After passing through a radiation checkpoint it’s time to enjoy a traditional Ukrainian lunch. Thankfully all the food served in the canteen is grown outside of the exclusion zone! We couldn’t tell you what exactly was on the menu (you got what you were given) but it was delicious and very filling!
Top Tip: Remember to inform your guide of any dietary requirements ahead of the tour so they can accommodate you.
9. Duga Radar System
Hidden amongst the dense woodland in the Chernobyl exclusion zone is one of the Soviet’s best kept secrets. A bus stop labelled ‘Kids Camp’ marks the secret access road to Duga Radar station. Towering 150 metres into the sky, it was part of the Soviet Union’s early missile detection system. Although some conspiracy theorists believe it was linked to mind control or weather experiments.
Fun Fact: Duga was nicknamed the ‘Russian Woodpecker’ due to the repetitive tapping noises its broadcasts made.
10. Bridge of Death
On April 26th 1986, Pripyat residents gathered on the nearby railway bridge to observe the bright flames light up the night sky in the aftermath of reactor 4’s explosion. HBO’s Chernobyl depicts radioactive dust landing on children playing and residents on the bridge, later stating that all those on the bridge that night died. However, there’s varied reports on this and it’s hard to decipher the facts from the fiction regarding the ‘Bridge of Death‘. It has been reported that some locals did visit the bridge but no one knows if they survived or if they developed any long term health issues that night. In fact, many Pripyat residents slept through the explosion and plant workers didn’t find out about the incident until they arrived at the plant later that morning.
11. Chernobyl Town
The town of Chernobyl is located 15 km south of the Nuclear Power Plant. It was much smaller than Pripyat, with only 14,000 residents. Remarkably, Chernobyl is still inhabited by around 1000 zone workers today. There are two stores, a post office and a hotel. Those living in the town can stay a maximum of 15 days before they are required to leave for 15 days. The tour stops by the Monument of the Third Angel and a path lined with village signs, each representing a lost village, abandoned in the exclusion zone after the disaster.
12. Chernobyl Welcome Sign
The last stop on our 1 Day tour was the Chernobyl welcome sign. It’s a poignant stop to make and a sad reminder of the tragic events that took so many lives.
How Much Does it Cost to Visit Chernobyl?
1 Day Tour
Visiting Chernobyl on the 1 Day Tour from Kyiv costs £109 pp (prices as per 2020) with Chernobylwel.come
This includes:
- Return transport between Kyiv and Chernobyl
- Free Wifi on an air conditioned bus throughout the tour (upload pictures to social media instantly!)
- Small groups (small mini bus, no larger than 18 people)
- A free ‘newspaper‘ to read on the journey
- A TV documentary about the disaster on the way
- Several geiger counters shared within the group (we had 4 or 5 between 15)
- Free individual dosimeter to be worn throughout your time in the exclusion zone
- Photos before the accident shown during the tour.
- All legal documentation to enter the zone
- Traditional Ukrainian lunch at the Chernobyl power plant workers cafe
- Free gifts at the end of the tour
- Free ticket to the Chernobyl Museum in Kyiv
2 Day Tour
Costs £269 pp, (prices as per 2020) which includes all of the above PLUS:
- Overnight hotel accommodation in the zone
- Traditional Ukrainian Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
- Opportunity to meet the Chernobyl Babushkas
- Opportunity to see 3 times more sights in the zone than the 1 Day tour
When is the Best Time to Visit Chernobyl?
There isn’t necessarily a ‘best’ time to visit Chernobyl, but maybe a best time to suit you.
Winter
If safety is a concern then winter is deemed the safest time to visit. It’s thought that the snow and freezing temperatures provide a blanket over the radioactive particles in the ground. As a result, levels of radiation in winter are generally much lower. Mist, snow and a barren forest make for eerily creepy photos of abandoned buildings standing out in the white forest. We visited in January 2020, it was extremely cold reaching lows of -10°C whilst we were in the zone, we even saw a few snowflakes! The icy ground and chill in the air were a constant reminder of the tragedy and made for a really memorable experience. Visiting on a bright summer’s day would be a very different experience.
Spring
There is no snow at this point nor have the trees grown any leaves which means buildings are still visible through dense forest and overgrowth. However, spring doesn’t last long in the zone and is hard to pinpoint exactly as it can change annually. So if spring is when you want to visit Chernobyl, be sure to research so you don’t miss it!
Summer
The benefit of visiting in summer is the longer hours of daylight. This is particularly beneficial for those staying overnight in the zone, meaning you may be able to make more stops before or after dinner. It’s also much warmer, averaging around 25°C mid season. The dense greenery disguises many buildings, particularly in Pripyat, but might be ideal for those wanting to ‘discover’ buildings hiding amongst the overgrowth.
Autumn
Autumn is the most colourful and some say most beautiful time to visit Chernobyl. With leaves beginning to fall from trees, the ground is scattered with red and oranges hues, also allowing visitors to see buildings hidden in the forest, no longer tucked behind a wall of greenery.
Weather in Chernobyl
Weather in the exclusion zone can range from below -10°C in winter to over 30°C in summer. The question above ‘What’s the best time to visit Chernobyl?’ describes each season in more detail. Accuweather give you the historical average from any specific date as well as previous temperatures. Below is a current weather forecast.
Current Weather Forecast
What to Wear to Chernobyl?
Your wardrobe choice will largely depend on the time of year you’re visiting Chernobyl. The most important things to wear at any time of year are sturdy shoes (you will be walking A LOT!), long sleeved tops and long trousers (these are to keep you protected from any radioactive particles in the zone). Tours often walk through overgrown and wooden areas which may mean you brush against trees and other organic material.
Temperatures range from -10°C to 30°C throughout the year, check the weather forecast before your visit to ensure you pack the best clothing and maybe even an umbrella!
Winter
In winter we recommend LOTS of layers, if you bring too many you can always strip and leave them on the bus. Thermal or thick socks, a hat, gloves and warm jacket are a must.
Summer
Visiting Chernobyl involves a lot of walking and exploring outside so it’s important to stay safe in the sun. We recommend taking sunglasses and a sunhat as well as applying suncream regularly. Unfortunately shorts are not permitted.
Visiting Chernobyl: Zone Rules
When entering the Chernobyl exclusion zone it’s important to be responsible, you’re effectively roaming an outdoor museum. It’s a piece of history and it’s important to preserve the site as much as possible. Listen carefully, stay close to your guide and follow any rules they put in place.
Chernobyl Exclusion Zone Rules:
- It is prohibited to put anything on the ground, that includes tripods, kneeling to take that epic instashot or just popping your bag on the ground whilst you get something out.
- You must not touch any vegetation or structures.
- To use a drone, appropriate paperwork must be filled out BEFORE you enter the zone.
- You must be 18 years old to enter the exclusion zone.
- Wear long trousers and closed shoes at all times (skirts, shorts and open shoes are prohibited).
- You must comply with all requirements at radiation checkpoints.
- Keep your passport on you to show at checkpoints if required.
- It is prohibited to drink alcohol / take drugs.
- It is illegal to take anything from inside the zone.
- You may not smoke or eat in open air, smoking is only permitted in designated areas.
- It is prohibited to carry any type of weapon.
Chernobyl Today
It is estimated that Chernobyl’s Exclusion Zone won’t be safe for humans to inhabit for another 20,000 years. However, the zone isn’t completely abandoned. Along with those working at the power plant and in the zone administratively, it’s estimated that another 100-200 people live there illegally. Many are former residents who returned to their homes in the years following the accident. They are called “Samosely” which translates to “Self Settlers” and most are women in their 70’s and 80’s. The Babushkas of Chernobyl. To help the Samosely survive, the government distribute basic supplies to 11 of the villages on a weekly basis.
Most vacant homes in the zone are being sold by former residents for only a few hundred pounds. Houses in good condition, which are hard to find, can be sold for up to £3000. For this reason, some Ukrainians are moving nearer or even into the zone, where it’s affordable and free from conflict. The BBC wrote an interesting article interviewing a mother who moved to the exclusion zone with her daughters a few years ago for this reason.
With nature overtaking the derelict and rusted ruins, animals are thriving and biodiversity in the zone is on the increase. Throughout the tours, guides will often show photos of the location you’re at before the accident, giving you a glimpse into it’s past life. Although, it can be hard to imagine the decaying concrete structures as they were before when greenery is all that holds them together now.
Dogs Of Chernobyl
Many of the dogs in the exclusion zone are descendants of the abandoned pets of former residents. After the accident, troops were sent to kill the pets but some survived and today there are around 300 stray dogs roaming the exclusion zone. Although sadly, as a result of harsh winter conditions and predators in the zone many don’t live past the age of 6. They often follow tour groups around the zone and can be mainly found near checkpoints where the guards play and look after them. The Guardian has a great article on where you can meet dogs like ‘Tarzan’ who live in the zone.
How Accurate is Chernobyl HBO?
Following the release of HBO’s Chernobyl in May 2019, over 8 million people tuned in within the first two months. It’s the highest rated programme in history on IMDB (currently 9.4/10) beating Game of Thrones! The incredibly detailed historic drama won 10 Emmy awards including Outstanding Limited Series. Many details in the series are true, although some have been dramatised for TV and others created to support the story telling. Below are some of those that are true to life and others that have been created or dramatised.
Fiction: The series shows a helicopter falling from the sky after flying over the open reactor in the immediate aftermath of the accident. This isn’t entirely correct. A helicopter DID crash but it was two weeks after the initial explosion and was the result of a collision with a crane.
Fact: They did use remote controlled robots to attempt to clear the highly radioactive rubble in order to spare human lives. There were around 60 robots, one of which resembled the moon buggy.
Fiction: The ‘Bridge of Death’ story depicted in the series isn’t entirely true. It has been reported that some locals DID visit the bridge but there’s no evidence to suggest that they all died. Most Pripyat residents actually slept through the explosion.
Fact: Doctors did try and use milk to treat the radiation burns. In the series we see Doctors pouring milk over a patient’s burns in hope of treating them like fire burns (although milk is not actually a remedy for fire burns.)
The BBC have a great article that compares survivors stories to the HBO series. Below is a video that shows a side by side comparison of the series and real footage shot at the time of the accident.
Facts and Figures
The BBC reported that those living in the nearby town of Pripyat were exposed to 37,000 times the dose of a chest x-ray. People 50 miles away were exposed to 180 mSv/hr, exceeding the safe annual exposure in less than a minute.
With there being so many important facts and figures associated with the disaster, we put the key points into a helpful infographic.
Hopefully our guide answered all your questions about visiting Chernobyl. If you found this post useful please share and like it below! If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to get in touch or leave a comment below. And for more inspiration why not check out some of our other destinations.
Thanks for reading,
Eve and Nick