Alta Via 1: A Complete Guide
Determined to catch hiking season in Europe we planned to trek Alta Via 1, in late August 2020, our first overseas adventure since COVID-19.
The 120 KM hiking trail snakes north to south through the incredible Italian Dolomites. Over 9 days we climbed steep rocky mountains, crossed alpine meadows and tackled our first via ferratas’. If given the chance, we’d do it all again tomorrow!
If you’re a keen hiker looking for your next challenge, this is a great chance to push yourself and explore one of the world’s most beautiful mountain ranges.
In this complete guide we’ve included everything you need to know about planning your Alta Via 1 adventure. Including; how to get there, where to stay and answering FAQ’s about the trail.
Contact us through our ‘Get In Touch’ page or social media for a step by step printable guide!
*Our Alta Via 1 post may contain affiliate links, if you click the link and purchase an item through this you won’t pay a penny more, but we get a small commission which helps keep this website up and running, thank you!*
Navigation Menu
Where is Alta Via 1?
Alta Via 1 is a long distance hiking trail which snakes north to south through the Dolomites in north east Italy. The route begins at the picturesque Lago Di Braies (also know by it’s German name, Pragser Wildsee). It finishes at the less instagrammable, La Pissa Bus Stop. The route crosses alpine meadows, dense pine forests and climbs steep rocky mountains including a network of ‘Via Ferrata’s’. With such a variety of terrain, the trail never gets boring and consistently treats you to breath-taking views of the incredible landscapes around you.
With the start of the trail being only a 30 minute drive from the Austrian border, hikers may notice the Austrian and Germanic influences in the mountain refuges and nearby towns.
After trekking 120km south, the trail finishes just over an hours drive north of Venice. This is a great option for backpackers to end their adventure with a weekend relaxing in the “floating city”.
Fun Fact: Large parts of the Dolomites were key battlegrounds between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Italy during WWI. After the war, parts of the former Austria-Hungary came under Italian control but it is still thought up to 70% of local populations remain German speaking. Many remnants of the war can still be seen on the trail, including bunkers, craters, abandoned barracks, trenches and tunnels.
How to get to Alta Via 1?
Getting to the start of Alta Via 1 can feel like an adventure in itself! The Dolomites aren’t as accessible as the Alps however once you finally arrive you do experience the benefit of this.
By Plane
Many people, including ourselves, choose to fly to Venice Marco Polo Airport. Alternatively, you could fly to Treviso or if travelling from further afield, fly to Munich or Innsbruck before taking advantage of Europe’s fantastic rail links.
By Bus
From Venice Marco Polo or Venice Mestre Station, you can catch the Cortina Express direct to Cortina. A one way trip from Venice to Cortina costs €18.00 pp and takes around 2 and a half hours.
From Cortina, you will need to catch the SAD service to Dobbiaco. There is then an onward bus from Dobbiaco to Lago di Braies and the start of the trail. We chose to stay overnight in the neighbouring town of Villabassa at the Historic Emma Hotel. Others choose to head straight to Hotel Lago di Braies, though this was well beyond our budget!
We recommend booking all your buses in advance as they can be busy. Particularly the ones from Cortina as they are much smaller that the Cortina Express.
By Train
For those already in Europe, train may be the easiest method of transport with good links from Munich, Innsbruck and the Brenner Pass. You will need to change for the Val Pusteria branch line east past Brunico. The most convenient station is at Villabassa where you can then catch the bus to Lago di Braies as above.
Train is also feasible from Venice via Treviso to Calalzo where you would need to transfer to a Dolomiti bus to Cortina
Top Tip: Be careful once you arrive in the Dolomites to disembark at the correct stops/stations. Some of the services only display the German names of the towns which can be very confusing!
Where to stay on Alta Via 1?
With a network of over 30 refuges to choose from along Alta Via 1, you can really customize this route. Choosing stops to suit all individual abilities, fitness levels and desired level of ‘luxury’. We chose to do the route in 9 days (8 sleeps), staying at the following refuges:
- Sennes (€38 B&B, private bedroom)
- Fanes (€75, private bedroom)
- Lagazuoi (€88, private bedroom)
- Nuvolau (€65, 4 person room but we had it to ourselves due to COVID. No showers)
- Staulanza (€80, private room with en-suite)
- Tissi (€58, 4 person room but we had it to ourselves due to COVID)
- Passo Duran (€42, 4 person room but we had it to ourselves due to COVID)
- Pian de Fontana (€53, dorm room, paid extra for showers)
The above prices are what we paid per person per night on a half board basis in August/September 2020.
Top Tip: Wild Camping isn’t permitted in some areas of the national park. However, if you follow the ‘leave no trace’ principles, you are unlikely to have any problems. Just remember that refuelling with supplies is not easy on Alta Via 1 and you must be fit enough to carry the extra weight.
What are the Refuges like on Alta Via 1?
The mountain refuges on Alta Via 1 are like hostels but with a cosy and rustic mountain atmosphere. Most charge on a half-board basis. This includes bed, breakfast and typically a three course evening meal for anywhere between €40-70 pp per night.
Sleeping arrangements usually comprise dormitories although many do offer private rooms for an extra few euros per night. Rooms are mostly cosy and warm and you are provided with a pillow and a blanket, though it’s advisable you bring your own sleeping bag liner.
Water is scarce in the Dolomites and although many of the refuges may feel like hotels after a hard day on the trail, remember they are still remote mountain refuges. Therefore be prepared to buy bottled water and unfortunately showers are not always available. In some refuges you can pay extra and are provided with shower tokens which permit you to a set time or set volume of hot water. This being said out of our 9 days on Alta Via 1, we only had 2 days without showers and thankfully they weren’t consecutive!
Don’t let the word ‘refuge’ put you off, they are really unique and enjoyable places to stay. They also mean you start and end your days with spectacular views and fresh mountain air.
How long does it take to complete Alta Via 1?
Depending on fitness, time constraints and the weather, it can typically take anywhere between 8 and 11 days to complete Alta Via 1. Some extremely fit trekkers can complete it in 6 or less. Although, if you cover such long distances each day you might not be able to soak up the views and enjoy the experience as much.
Along the route we met fellow hikers completing the trail in 10 days, others 8 and another in 6. We also came across families completing a few sections of the route to gently introduce their children to life in the mountains.
We completed the route in 9 days and would recommend this as a minimum to allow you to enjoy your surroundings. It also gives you a some leeway to account for bad weather, which we had plenty of!
Top Tip: Plan your itinerary based upon your own abilities, use our guide as simply that, a guide. Don’t try to copy any you see online or in a guide book exactly. You don’t want to find yourself suffering with exhaustion or alternatively finding yourself bored having arrived at your next refuge after 2 hours.
Alta Via 1 Route Summary
Stage 1: Lago di Braies to Rifugio Sennes
Alta Via 1 begins at the southern end of Lago di Braies. A crystal clear lake beneath the towering Croda del Becco and the perfect place to start the adventure.
You start by winding up a zig-zagging path across scree and moraine. Eventually the trail reaches a narrow, cabled ledge before climbing steadily through pine forest. All the time the trail never loses sight of the magnificent views down to Lago di Braies.
After passing a turn off for Malga Cavallo and continuing through the forest, the path opens up into a rocky amphitheatre. This leads to the first aided section of the trail, where two short cables to help across steep, smooth and polished rock. Roughly 1.5 hours in, a right turn at a path junction leads you into the ‘Forno’ (oven), a known heat trap which you will quickly feel if walking on a hot summers day.
The path winds it’s way up rocks and boulders to Forcella Sora Forno. This is the entrance to Parque Naturale delle Dolomiti d’Ampezzo. A breathtaking panorama opens up in front of you with views across to the Marmolada, it’s glittering glacier, the Tofane Pyramids, the Pelmo and Cristallo.
Additional Detour
For those who feel up to it and with time on their hands, a zig-zagging path heads north west to climb Croda del Becco with cables set into the rock face to tackle an awkward corner. We didn’t opt for this as we were ready for lunch and had eyes on Rifugio Biella! The guide book recommends an additional 2 hours for this detour.
A short walk down slope from Forcella Sora Forna and you reach Rifugio Biella, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch of Tagliatelle with Venison Ragu. Some hikers choose to end their first stage here, the refuge sleeps 45 and we can vouch for the quality of the food!
After lunch…
From Rifugio Biella head west along the dirt road beneath the imposing south east face of Croda del Becco. Around 10 minutes from Rifugio Biella Alta Via 1 forks off the dirt road and across easy, undulating terrain. Stroll across the lush green mounds where you may spot grazing cows or the rare mountain flower known as Edelweiss. Then the path descends to join another dirt road and onto Rifugio Sennes.
We spent the night here and enjoyed a comfortable room and fantastic evening meal. It’s also home to Europe’s highest landing strip!
Stage 2: Rifugio Sennes to Rifugio Fanes
From Rifugio Sennes proceed south down the runway, which seemingly drops away off the end of the earth! Keep an eye out for roaming pigs and cows. Once at the fork, take the trail to the right which eventually joins a dirt road.
Continue along the jeep road until you reach a sharp bend. Cross over onto the footpath ahead weaving through the Arolla pines of Plan de Lasta towards Rifugio Fodara Vedla. The footpath meets the road once more, heading towards a selection of wooden huts dotted around a sandy basin. Witness marmots whistling, socialising and burrowing in the grassy mounds only metres away.
Once at the centre of the settlement head east, crossing the basin diagonally towards a footpath running alongside a timber fence. Snaking below to eventually join the mountain bike trail from above, the path then begins the sharp zig-zagging descent to Rifugio Pederü.
Alternative Route
Follow the jeep path and skip Rifugio Fodara Vedla, follow signs for Rifugio Perderü until it rejoins the jeep track for a steep descent.
Descend the steep gully, following the rocky access road constructed by the military in the 1960’s. Having zig-zagged steeply for over an hour, Rifugio Pederü comes into view. This is the perfect opportunity to refuel and take in the magnificent views of the red and rugged, Cima Forca di Ferro.
After lunch…
Leaving Pederü, head south through Val dai Tamersca following the trail over a stream and up a loose and rocky path. Cross the jeep track and continue on the footpath, keeping the fast flowing Rio San Vigilio below on your left.
Emerging over the top you’re greeted with an undulating green and rocky landscape, filled with a variety of flora and fauna. This area is known as ‘Marmot’s Parliament’, referencing the legendary Kingdom of Fanes.
Fun Fact: The Kingdom of Fanes tells of the epic story of the Ladin people. With tales of mythological times, magical characters, supernatural powers and mysterious kingdoms. According to legend, the Fanes were the founding population of the valleys. They remain hidden in the mountains to this day, awaiting the rebirth of their kingdom.
The footpath eventually re-joins the road and whilst some hikers choose to then follow this for the remainder of the section, we opted for the more direct but rugged footpath. Cutting off multiple corners, the trail intersects the road several more times before reuniting with it for one last section. Passing the old herders hut, Ücia dles Muntagnoles at 2022m, you are met with a fork, left for Rifugio Fanes and right for Rifugio Lavarella.
Rifugio Review
We chose to stay at the cosy Rifugio Fanes, however both Refuges rejoin Alta Via 1 with only a little difference in distance.
Rifugio Fanes is one of the more luxurious and modernised refugios whilst still maintaining an authentic mountain feel.
Stage 3: Rifugio Fanes to Rifugio Lagazuoi
Begin day 3 with a short climb up a rocky staircase before strolling along former military roads. With Lago di Limo on your left, views of the magnificent Sasso della Croce and enormous Lavinores come into view.
As the path splits right, what could be mistaken as overgrown ditches are actually remnants of a network of WW1 trenches carved into the mountain landscape.
Fact: In the spring of 1916, the Austrians descended on the Dolomites. Their goal was to reach the Venetian Plain and march on Venice. They were met in the mountains by stiff Italian resistance.
With the gravel of the road crunching under your boots, striking views of Cime Campestrin Punta Sud materialize on the horizon. Whilst a glance to the left presents you with the rocky buttress of Croda del Vallon Bianco.
The modest wooden hut, Malga Fanes Grande, a dairy farm, marks the start of an open grassland section along the valley floor. Gusts of fresh mountain air rush through the valley whilst resident horses calmly roam the plains. Progressing towards the Cunturines, a bench and wooden signpost at the base of a landslide marks a fork in the path.
Alternative Route
For an easier but longer route, fork right at the base of Cima del Lago. Following route 11 towards Col Locia, then descending towards the restaurant Capanna Alpina. Before the restaurant take a sharp turn left, following route 20 passing Rifugio Scotoni and rejoining AV1 at Lago di Lagazuoi.
Proceed left, climbing the loose rocky path, snaking through shrubbery towards Forcella del Lago. The long steady climb offers panoramic views of the valley below and the Cunturines behind. The saddle, Forcella del Lago, sits at 2486m, between Cima del Lago and Punte di Fanes. From here, hikers are rewarded with jaw dropping views of the well known peak of Lagazuoi Piccolo.
A plunging zig-zag descent down a steep gully concludes at the peaceful Lago di Lagazuoi. A rockfall in 2016 destroyed the original path which hugged the mountain and snaked round to its left and learning this only made our descent faster!
Top Tip: Hiking poles are a blessing on the descent from Forcella del Lago. Not only do they give your knees that extra support but they help you get into a rhythm and therefore, descend faster.
Proceed south on route 20 past the lake, those who took the alternative route rejoin the path here.
Scanning the jagged landscape, ruins of several wartime buildings come into view. Entering the historical WW1 battlefield, keep your eyes peeled for trenches, ruins and timbers. A constant reminder of the war time terrors the surrounding landscape witnessed. More information on the battles that took place on Mt. Lagazuoi can be found here.
At Forcella Lagazuoi turn right following one last zig-zag, before Rifugio Lagazuoi and panoramic views of the Dolomites come into view.
Rifugio Review
At 2752m, Rifugio Lagazuoi is the highest point on Alta Via 1 and renowned for its incredible views across the Dolomites. The Rifugio is popular with day trippers and served a delectable selection of cakes during the afternoon. We paid extra for a private room which also granted us access to hot showers. However if you opt for a dorm room then you have to pay extra for a shower token.
A special mention must go to the chef at Rifugio Lagazuoi, the most mouth watering and tender steak we have ever eaten.
Stage 4: Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Nuvolau
Our Experience
A storm rolled in the previous afternoon, evolving from heavy rain to a nasty thunderstorm overnight. For this reason it wasn’t safe to follow our planned route. Taking advice from the hut guardian, we took the cable car down the mountain along with the other guests. We were very grateful to the cable car operators who took advantage of a short lull in the weather to do one journey down the mountain to get everybody down!
We ducked into Rifugio Passo Falzarego for shelter and planned a new route towards Rifugio Nuvolau. The idea was that if we couldn’t get there, we would get as close as possible. Thus avoiding an incredibly long hike the following day or even having to rearrange the rest of the refuges.
Although fast flowing rivers were now threatening to flood the mountain roads, we felt following the road down the valley was the safest option to avoid the lightning.
After 15 minutes on the tarmac our waterproofs surrendered and we were saturated.
Arriving at our plan B route, a slightly less steep path towards Nuvolau, the footbridge had been submerged by a fast flowing torrent. With thunder and lightning following us down the valley and getting ever closer, we made the decision to find shelter, and fast!
We followed our map to Baita Bai de Dones, a restaurant and bar only a mile down the road. Drenched and dripping, we enjoyed a thick hot chocolate whilst planning yet another detour.
After refueling…
With a short window of clear sky, the chairlift reopened. This meant we would definitely make it to Rifugio Scoiattoli and hopefully, Rifugio Nuvolau! As we left the chairlift the rain returned and we climbed our way through the mist to Rifugio Averau before crossing the rocky ridge to Rifugio Nuvolau.
Fun Fact: Nuvolau translates to Cloud!
Guidebook Route
This was the route we had hoped to follow and one that certainly wouldn’t have set us back over 50 euros on cable car and chairlift tickets!
From Rifugio Lagazuoi, head to the cable car station following signs for the tunnels. A narrow section followed by some winding WW1 trenches leads to a pitch-black opening, the entrance to the tunnels. This steep and slippery section transports you through time with reconstructed sleeping quarters and passageways. Occasional windows provide some needed natural light and stunning views across the Dolomites.
Top Tip 1: Pack a head torch and gloves for the tunneled section, there aren’t enough windows to safely descend and the handrail is often cold and slippy.
Top Tip 2: To save you carrying your rucksack through the tunnels, you can send it down with the cable car for 5 euros.
Having explored the convoluted tunnel system, there is a brief descent to a second, shorter tunnel before joining path 402 towards Passo Falzarego. Here you can pick up bags from the Cable Car Station.
With Passo Falzarego on your right, path 441 can be found leaving the car park and snaking over the undulating grasslands ahead. The well travelled path gradually increases in gradient and eventually arrives at Forcella Averau. Continue up towards Rifugio Averau and onto the unusual, rocky path ahead, the 439. The steady slope up to Rifugio Nuvolau, first built in the 1800s, is short and painless despite its sharp appearance.
Rifugio Review
Rifugio Nuvolau was the most basic refuge we stayed at. Visitors have to make use of the outdoor toilet and with an absence of both showers and hot water it’s no luxury hotel. Furthermore, unlike most other refuges, this is the only place where the price only includes your bed for the night. So you pay extra for your meals dependent on what you order. Nevertheless, it’s a unique place with jaw dropping views and we would recommend staying here.
Alternatively you could stay at Rifugio Averau.
Fun Fact: There is some interesting mountaineering memorabilia in the dining area, with a signed poster from the first ascensionists of K2. One of whom was a regular visitor to Nuvolau and a member of the local mountaineering club.
Stage 5: Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Staulanza
Leaving Nuvolau in the clouds, follow route 438 past the flagpole and over what appears to be a precipitous edge. Here you’re presented with the first of two short Via Ferratas.
The Via Ferratas
These cable aided stretches with small ladders are of average difficulty but should only be undertaken in good weather and without a bulky rucksack. Our heavy backpacks made what should have been a comfortable descent feel a little precarious.
If the weather isn’t on your side or you feel this isn’t something you want to do, there is a variant, details are listed below.
The first Via Ferrata follows a secure cable descending along a steep yet brief, polished ledge before pivoting onto a short iron ladder. Reunited with the footpath, continue weaving through the rocks and keeping to the waymarked path.
Top Tip: Ignore the higher route to the summit of Ra Gusela, it’s easy to mistake this as the correct path.
The second and more challenging of the two Via Ferratas begins with a short slope before turning a corner to an exposed gully with a loose gravel surface. Keeping hold of the cable, maneuver yourself down and at one point position a leg either side of it. Take extra care in placing your foot on the first ladder rung. Regular use and heavy weights have caused the first rung to bend, making it harder to get a footing.
Top Tip: Keep an eye out for mud, we descended shortly after a large guided group had climbed up from the muddy gully. Resulting in both the ladder and polished rock being coated in slippy red clay.
Greeted with solid ground, continue along a short aided path. Then zig-zag down and branch right at the junction, joining the variant route on path 443. Follow the trail over muddy fields before reaching Rifugio Passo Giau, a popular stop with bikers and car enthusiasts.
Alternative Route
From Nuvolau return back along the same path towards Rifugio Averau, descending the slope to Rifugio Scoiattoli then following the 443. The path follows a gradual slope down and across grassy meadows, rejoining the route onto Rifugio Passo Giau.
From Rifugio Passo Giau cross the road onto path 436 passing a rickety wooden chapel on your right. Follow the dirt path along Col Piombin until a lush, grassland basin is unveiled. Skirt the perimeter of the green bowl before climbing a steep, rocky path to Forcella Giau.
Fun Fact: In 1987, the burial site of a Mesolithic man, now known as the Mondeval Man was discovered in the plateau of Mondeval di Sora. The skeleton of the Stone Age hunter lived 7500 years ago and is now displayed in a local museum. More information can be found here.
Continue on…
Follow route 436 south, descending over large rocks and boulders towards Forcella Col Duro. Continue down the gentle grassy slope until greeted with Malga Prendera, several small farm buildings. Turn right onto the gravel drive and follow for 1 hour before Rifugio Città di Fiume comes into view.
Positioned directly beneath Monte Pelmo, the small and isolated hut is charming but comprises only basic facilities. Knowing a more luxurious Refuge was only an hour away crossing simple terrain, we decided to shorten the following day and push on to Rifugio Staulanza.
From Rifugio Città di Fiume turn off the gravel road and follow route 472 into the pine forest. Follow the rocky path and soon find yourself edging across the bottom of a scree slope below the famous Pelmo. Following the path you pass through another short pine forest before emerging on the road to be greeted by the warmth and comforts of Rifugio Passo Staulanza.
Rifugio Review
This was comfortably the best refuge we stayed at on the trail, we had our own double room with an en-suite and it was definitely nicer than some hotels we have stayed in! It was certainly needed however, this was one of our hardest days on the trail due to the absence of a suitably located Refuge to stop for lunch.
Top Tip: Beware of Bears ! When we passed through the wooded section after Rifugio Citta di Fume, we saw what we were 99% sure was a bear print. That evening we googled it and read several stories about attacks and sightings in the Dolomites that summer.
Stage 6: Rifugio Staulanza to Rifugio Tissi
From Passo Staulanza, continue down the road until you reach the first bend where you cut across onto the track into the forest. Further along the track take a left at a cluster of sign posts and shortly after reach a small farm known as Malga Vescova. From here, the trail leaves the dirt road left to join path 561, climbing a steep, grassy hillside before entering a long saddle with tremendous views of Monte Pelmo. You will soon reach a dirt road which leads down to the farm Malga Pioda.
The route then follows path 556 which climbs steeply, zig-zagging up the hillside along a war-time mule track. After a steady climb you shortly reach Rifugio Coldai, a decent sized refuge with fantastic views of Monte Pelmo. Many choose to spend the night here.
Follow path 560 which climbs up behind the Refuge to a col overlooking the beautiful Lago Coldai. Descend to the lake, which is a popular picnic spot for day trippers, and follow the trail which skirts the edge of the shore before climbing south to the notch of Forcella Col Negro. From here the trail steadily loses height with loose rocks and evidence of frequent rockfall higher on the slopes.
Reaching a fork in paths at 2100m, head right, a steady 150m climb to Rifugio Tissi.
Rifugio Review
One of our favourite stops on the route, our room was freezing but Paola and Walter were fantastic hosts and the refuge boasts unrivalled views of Monte Civetta. There is even a cute little swing and love heart sculpture outside, and a short stroll out of the back of the hut leads to Forcella di Col Rean, with great views down to the town of Alleghe and its vivid green lake.
Stage 7: Rifugio Tissi to Rifugio Passo Duran
Leave Tissi and head back down the track to rejoin Alta Via 1, heading down the path along the valley floor. Cross a flat open pasture with farm ruins before joining a dirt road which shortly reaches Rifugio Vazzoler.
Continue past Vazzoler on the dirt track with magnificent views of Monte Civetta and the valley below. Approximately 30 minutes after leaving Vazzoler, you reach a fork where you will leave the dirt road and join path 554 into woodland with beautiful wildflowers and squirrels to keep you company. Cross several eroded gullies before beginning a steep ascent to Forcella Col dell’Orso. The climb has some exposure and the path is a little loose so be careful. Walking poles are a big help here.
Continue through the dwarf pine, shortly a very short cable helps you around an awkward corner but it is nothing to worry about. Soon after you will encounter a left fork, keep straight on to a pasture valley. Another junction near some ruins takes you left to climb a steep red clay slope, sticky when wet! Descend through larch wood before eventually reaching Rifugio Carestiato. Many choose to stay here however we just opted to enjoy a late lunch before moving on to Passo Duran.
Top Tip: Knowing the following day was going to be the biggest of our trip, we thought it made sense to hike the extra hour to Passo Duran, mostly in descent, to give ourselves a headstart.
Rifugio Review
You have two accommodation options when you reach Passo Duran, Rifugio Passo Duran ‘C Tome’ or Rifugio San Sebastiano. Both are on a road popular with bikers and have breathtaking views of Cima Nord San Sebastiano.
We stayed at Rifugio Passo Duran which was basic but we had the whole place to ourselves and the guardians were very welcoming. Although it’s nice chatting with fellow hikers in the evenings, it was a really relaxing evening to just sit by the fire and watch the sunset on our own!
Stage 8: Rifugio Passo Duran to Rifugio Pian de Fontana
Alta Via 1 continues south along the road for approximately 2km before reaching a small picnic area. Here Alta Via 1 branches off along path 543 and you re-enter Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. The trail gets steadily steeper as you pass through dense pine forest before popping out onto a long scree slope.
The trail continues along fairly gentle terrain as you pass through more pine forest before emerging at Malga Moschein, where there is a drinking water fountain. With your thirst quenched, a short climb presents you with fabulous views of several Dolomite peaks before you reach the abandoned military barracks at Forcella del Moschesin.
From the barracks ignore the path and signs pointing you left, and continue straight on for a short climb as you follow Alta Via 1 towards Rifugio Pramperet. To reach the Rifugio, you do need to fork off the main trail for about a 30 minute round trip detour, but we thought it was worth for it the pasta!
After lunch…
Retrace your steps to rejoin path 514. A steady climb leads to a saddle with magnificent views of the lunar like landscape ahead of you. Alta Via 1 climbs steadily across smooth, limestone slabs with the route marked by red paint on the rounded rocks. You eventually reach a narrow ridge and a short scramble before reaching the beautiful amphitheatre of Forcella de Zita Sud, where you may spot Chamois and industrious Marmots darting across the mountainside.
Top Tip: The guidebook recommends avoiding this section if you struggle with heights or exposure. Don’t let this put you off, it was good fun and is less serious than something like Striding Edge in the UK.
Leaving Forcella de Zita Sud, you pass a steep lip where a sign warns you of dangerous terrain. Here begins the knee-trembling descent to Rifugio Pian de Fontana. You lose over 700m of elevation fairly quickly as the path zig-zags down the hillside, walking poles were definitely a saviour here!
Rifugio Review
Rifugio Pian de Fontana comprises a group of former shepherds huts, converted to two main bunk houses and a separate dining room. All accommodation is in shared dormitories and if you want a hot shower, be prepared to pay extra!
Be sure to ask the guardian for the bus timetable for the following day!
Stage 9: Rifugio Pian de Fontana to La Pissa Bus Stop
The final stage, well done for getting this far!
From Pian de Fontana, follow path 514 downhill through woodland before crossing a stream. Alta Via 1 zig-zags back up the hillside before reaching a green ampitheatre, following an old shepherds trail which cuts into the hillside below Cime de la Scala, with plunging views to the lush valley below.
The trails begins to head down hill as you descend a long zigzagging path through woodland before emerging at Rifugio Bianchet, where you can buy tickets for the bus to Belluno.
Leave Rifugio Bianchet along the gravel road which soon crosses a river and advances via several hairpin bends. Around 1 hour 30 minutes after leaving Rifugio Bianchet, Alta Via 1 departs the dirt track as a fork left, signposted ‘Fermata Autobus’. The path is narrow and probably more treacherous than anything you’ve covered for the previous 8 days, with an abundance of tree roots trying to trip you! You soon catch sight of the valley floor, cars flying by on the road and the sound of the fast flowing river below.
A final set of steps lead to the roadside, turn right here and walk ~200m down the road. The bus stop is on the other side of the road and is well marked.
It’s around a 20 minute drive to Belluno, be sure to pop into the tourist office to collect your Alta Via 1 pin badge! From Belluno, we boarded a train to Venice which took just over 2 hours.
Top Tip: Time your arrival at the La Pissa bus stop with a bus! They only arrive every 2 hours or so. The guardians at Pian de Fontana or Bianchet will be able to show you a timetable.
What to pack for Alta Via 1?
There’s no ‘Donkey Option’ with this route, whatever you pack you have to carry on your back ALL DAY. We took 40L-50L bags, we had to pack a little extra because we ended the trip in Venice. If we hadn’t tagged a Venice city break on the end we could definitely have packed lighter.
We’ve written a full kit list as a separate post here.
Though one key piece of advice would be to PACK A MAP! So many people were struggling to navigate at junctions on their phones and we heard stories at Rifugios of hikers trekking for up to 2 hours in the wrong direction.
Alternatively you can download our routes on komoot, just be sure to download them so you can use the app offline.
Top Tip: Mark the maps with your chosen route beforehand then fold it the night before into a waterproof case and keep them handy.
FAQ's
What does Alta Via mean?
In Italian ‘Alta Via’ translates to ‘High Route’, the term is most commonly associated with multi-day hiking routes. Generally the routes stretch for a long distance and cross high mountainous terrain.
There are actually six Alta Via routes through the Dolomites. However, Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2 are by far the most popular.
Fun Fact: Not all Alta Via routes include the term ‘Atla Via’ in their name. Other routes regarded as Alta Via’s include; Tour de Mont Blanc, Grande Traversata delle Alpi (GTA) and Tour of the Matterhorn.
When's the best time to do Alta Via 1?
The best time to trek the Alta Via 1 is European summer starting from mid-June until September. By mid-June the end of the winter snow has melted and the weather is typically more stable.
This being said, in 2020, we visited in the last week of August and first week of September and had just 3 days of bright sunshine, two days of seriously heavy rain and thunderstorms and a lot of mist. Weather is never predictable in the mountains!
Fortunately for us as we were travelling during the summer lull of the COVID-19 pandemic, the trail was fairly quiet. However in a ‘normal’ year, August is said to be the most popular month with busy trails and refuges.
What's the weather like in the Dolomites?
Typically the summer weather in the Dolomites is dominated by hot sunshine with occasional late afternoon rain storms.
September to October comprises the end of the season and can result in crystal clear skies without the summer humidity and storms, however many of the refuges close in September and you can get caught out by snowfall.
Our experience of the weather in the Dolomites was a real mixed bag with a couple of days of heavy rain and storms, some perfect blue sky days and others with overcast and misty conditions.
No matter what the weather, we had a great time and the conditions were generally great for hiking; not too hot, not too cold, not too windy. The occasional cloud cover and mist made for some cool atmospheric photographs too!
How much does Alta Via 1 cost?
Alta Via 1 cost us €1297 per person (~£1135) including; flights, airport hotel, transfers, insurance, spending money, refuges and all food and drink whilst on the trail. We have included a rough breakdown of how it worked out for us below.
- Return flights from Bristol to Venice including hold luggage (no walking poles in hand luggage!): €153 pp (~£135)
- Airport Hotel: €32 pp (~£28)
- Villabassa Hotel the day before starting the trail: €75 pp B&B (~£65)
- Refuges: €499 pp (~£440)
- Cash: €460 pp (~£400)
- Transfers including taxi to/from airport in the UK: €56 pp (~£50)
- Insurance: €23 pp (annual policy but purchased prior to this trip) (~£20)
We did pay extra for a private room and showers in some of the refuges so it could definitely be done cheaper.
If we were to do it again we would probably take more cash as we did almost run out! The costs soon rack up but it’s always nice to have lunch at one of the refuges you aren’t staying at as well as a late afternoon beer/coffee/cake when you arrive at your overnight stay.
Top Tip: Pay with card at the refuges that allow you to do so! Only a handful accept card but it helps to save your cash for the refuges that don’t.
Venice Add On
Since we completed the trek on a Friday morning, we opted to maximise our time off work by spending the weekend in Venice. Our 2 night stay there including hotel and spending money cost us approximately €220 pp.
We’ve published a separate post on spending a weekend in Venice, here.
How to make reservations at refuges on Alta Via 1?
To book Refuges on Alta Via 1 look them up online, some will have an online booking form and others require you to send an email to request a reservation.
This website is really useful and has all the Rifugio’s details http://rifugios.net/alta-via-1.html.
Using the maps and the guidebook we planned our days and where we wanted to stay before we went. We met some hikers on the trail who didn’t book any refuges prior to arriving in the Dolomites and simply phoned ahead each morning to see if there was a bed available.
Although this worked in the summer of 2020 due to an absence of tourists because of the COVID-19 pandemic, it would not be advisable in a normal year. Besides, if you have a tight schedule and return flights booked this is unlikely to work for you.
Do you need a permit for Alta Via 1?
No, you do not need a permit for Alta Via 1.
Thanks for reading!
Don’t forget, if you have any questions feel free to get in touch via our page or over one of our social media accounts.
We’d love to hear your experiences on Alta Via 1! If you’re in the planning stages of going, let us know!
Eve and Nick
2 comments
Thank you for your very informative blog post! My fiancé and I are hiking Alta Via 1 in September for our honeymoon. We are spending 2 nights after the hike in a spa resort in Badia. What we are trying to plan is how to best get from Belluno to Badia. Did Belluno seem like it was a good place to rent a car or transit to a more remote town? Thank you!
Hi Jill, sorry for the slow reply and congratulations on your wedding! We have been very busy getting married ourselves! Hope you had a great honeymoon!